How to Airbrush With Color-Shift Paint: A Liquid Alchemy Guide

Imagine a Gunpla model that offers a different look from every angle: that’s the magic of color-shift paint, a special type of paint that appears in different colors depending on your viewing angle and lighting. Gunpla 101 contributor Scott has a foolproof technique for applying this tricky paint. Follow along as he transforms the HG Weissritter into a chromatic masterpiece with the “Color-shift Sandwich.”

It’s late, synthwave is on loop, and my GHAD-39 decides to shower me in emerald. That face-full of color was a rude wake-up call—thinning ratios are non-negotiable. It also sent me hunting for a way to make my paint really sing, which led to the Color-shift Sandwich: two color-shift layers bookended by gloss seals for anything from soft glimmers to full-on ombré drama. In this guide, I’ll go over what I’m bringing to the table, how to prep your paints with my pre-bench ritual, the recipes you’ll need, and of course, the sandwich itself. Let’s dig in!

Glamorous close up shot of HG Weissritter‘s pack with color shift in full effect.

My Humble Rig

To establish my baselines, here’s a quick rundown of my airbrushing rig:

Airbrush: Ghaaleri GHAD-39 (0.35 mm needle)
Compressor: Master Airbrush TC-320 (18–21 PSI)
Thinning Agents: Vallejo Thinner, Flow Improver and Retarder Medium alongside Alclad Aqua Gloss

This combo balances fine-detail control with the gentle mist color-shift paints crave.

Pre-Bench Ritual

Skipping prep used to cost me time and patience. Now I treat it like part of the art:

Warm your fluids
Fill a mug with water, place your paint and SlipMix bottles inside (never directly on the warmer), and heat at 90–100 °F for about two minutes. That gentle, indirect heat keeps pigments suspended and viscosity steady—no spatter surprises.
Strain for purity
Use a 190 µm mesh for acrylics (100–120 µm for metallics). Filtering out gunk means fewer tip clogs and silky gloss coats.
Mix in SlipMix
Add 80 % flow improver + 20 % retarder (2 drops per cup). The result is what I call SlipMix. This fights dry tips and gives you extra time to blend fades without panic.

Lock in this ritual, and your airbrush becomes a friend instead of a fickle foe.

Baseline Recipes

Treat these as launch pads—note your tweaks in a notebook to perfect them over time:

Recipe	Ingredients	PSI & Distance	Notes
Primer	30 drops primer + 5 drops thinner + 2 drops SlipMix	20–22 PSI @ 7–8″	Blocks substrate color and ensures topcoat adhesion
Mirror-Prime Black Gloss	18 drops black paint + 10 drops thinner + 10 drops Aqua Gloss + 2 drops SlipMix	22 PSI @ 8″	Deep, reflective base—add Aqua Gloss if it looks dull
Flow-Boosted Metallics	24 drops metallic paint + 10 drops thinner + 4 drops Aqua Gloss + 2 drops SlipMix	21 PSI @ 6–7″	Smooth metallic layers that stand up to multiple gloss seals
Inter-Coat Dust Gloss	15 drops Aqua Gloss + 10 drops thinner + 1 drop SlipMix	21 PSI @ 7″	Light seal that locks each shift without killing translucency
Final Gloss Topcoat	24 drops Aqua Gloss + 10 drops thinner + 2 drops SlipMix	21 PSI @ 8″	Unifies layers under high-sheen protection; lower PSI if orange peel

The Colorful Feast for the Eyes

While this routine provides the framework, I’ll show you a few snippets from the realm of the possible—an ombré of Color-shift colors using Turbo Dork Color-shift paints (a first for me!):

Opaque Basecoat: Prime then Spray 2–3 even mist coats of Mirror-Prime Black Gloss; cure overnight.
- This glossy black canvas lays the groundwork for true prismatic depth.
First Color-Shift Paint: Mist 3–4 thin layers @ 18 PSI @ 6–7″; wait 5 min.
- Building up tint gradually keeps the layer translucent and avoids heavy spots that kill the shift effect
Inter-Coat Seal: One quick pass of Inter-Coat Dust Gloss; rest 3 min.
- Locks in the first shift and creates a fresh surface for the next paint to adhere to.
Second Color-Shift Paint: One light mist, then a wetter coat @ 18 PSI @ 6–7″; wait 5 min.
- The heavier second coat loads more pigment at the edges, crafting a smooth effect.
Final Gloss Seal: Seal with Final Gloss Topcoat; cure overnight.
- This seal evens out surface tension, fuses all layers under a high shine, and locks in your prismatic finish.

Close up shot of HG Weissritter‘s pack adorned with a Green / Blue color shift.

Wrapping Up

Scroll down to watch ‘Ice to Never’ and ‘Ground is Lava’ come alive on that mirror-black base. Notice how each gloss seal deepens the shimmer and how slight mist adjustments change the whole effect.

Started with bare spoons and sanded them for ease of painting.

Primed with Black and Grey to test out different possibilities.

Base -oated spoons with Purple, Red and a 50/50 split.

Blue Color-Shift Paint Layer on Purple, Red, 50/50 and Gloss Black.

After Gloss inter-coat, added Red Color-Shift paint.

Final products after Gloss Coat Armor.

We’ve covered a prep ritual to set you up for success, how these recipes give you a reliable starting point, and the simple five-step sandwich for prismatic depth. Now grab your airbrush, test these formulas, and discover your own tricks. Share your results or favorite tweaks in the comments—let’s keep growing together!

Scott demystifies Gunpla customization with step-by-step guides and creative hacks. His mission is to foster a supportive community by sharing lessons learned from every build—mistakes and all. Read more on his blog, Mecha Assembly eXperience (M.A.X.), and join the conversation on Instagram and Facebook.

Lauren